Damascene refers to the art of inlaying steel or other metals within gold or silver metals. Many definitions refer to Damascus as the city of origin, hence the name.
As it pertains to jewelry, the word Damascene is a process whereby non precious metals are decorated with 18-24K gold in decorative patterns. The procedure is for artisans to cover the surface of an object with fine grooves, using sharp cutting tools. Figures are then drawn on the scored surfaces. Then gold wires are pressed into these grooves with a steel punch and hammer. Figures are then drawn on the scored surfaces. The whole item is then blued to produce a black background by a total oxidation of the surfaces which are not damasked. A delicate and light process of chipping gives a lovely sheen to the object. Finally, the piece is mounted to give the final object.
The process dates back to the middle ages and was used by Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. It became popular in the XV century in Europe. Toledo, Spain is the largest producer of Damascene today.
Reed and Barton have an unique look to their Damascene jewelry with amber and orange colored backgrounds and designs in silver, instead of the traditional black and gold designs commonly seen.
Much of the Damascene produced for sale on the internet is actually made in the "Damascene Technique" or would be better called "Faux Damascene." It has the appearance of genuine Damascene jewelry, in that it is often black and gold, but the gold is not usually genuine 18k or 24K, and much of it is mass produced - most likely in the far east.





